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Instead, each morning I scan the day's new menu of "must-do" shows, tastings, "seminars", theme parties and lectures. And, with a gnarly name like that, how dangerous is it? Either way, play stops and the teams break into dance. In two days of smooth sailing we cover the nautical miles to Alotau at the eastern tip of mainland PNG. So, I miss a rock band, a massage, promotion, stretch class or party? On the sidelines a raucous village audience go off even more. The next adrenaline option is called Walk The Plank where, suitably harnessed, you can live-out those latent Captain Jack Sparrow fantasies by inching forward on a narrow beam that protrudes far above the heaving ocean. Near Alotau in Allied forces inflicted the war's first land defeat on Imperial Japanese troops. We reboard our own island, our elegant slice of offshore Oz, complete with its supermarket of beach fashions, duty-free liquor and jewellery, plus a casino where no poker machine goes unloved for too long. Home Destinations. Two sharp young attendants, Amir from Goa and Viddy from Java, keep the cabins in our corridor shipshape. Search Site. Youngsters and adults decked in headdresses and face-paint, loincloths and skirts are ready to put on exuberant performances on the town oval. The cruise for food lovers Contains:. For starters I try the top deck zip-line. In the best maritime tradition he views us not merely as passengers โ€” or worse, customers โ€” but as souls in his keeping, to be conveyed safely onward. Going ashore we head first to a cultural festival that features elaborately garbed dancers and singers from around Milne Bay province. Today we land trouble-free on the main island, Panasesa. Screamingly good fun, although far too brief. The best place to see polar bears Contains:. A good proportion seem to have taken the day off from village work and farming, with a ship's arrival being a vital event for their cash economy.

For full functionality of this site it is necessary to enable JavaScript. Our days ashore will be bookended by two sea days at either end of the voyage.

John Borthwick.

However, the depredation that Ian first witnessed with shark finning, turtle-killing and trepang gathering, soon turned him strongly towards conservation and to employing locals as protection rangers. Considering that episode as Paradise Postponed, I'd always hoped to get back. Grass-skirted kids from the neighbouring Engineer Islands dance up a welcome. The London-based, Australian businessman bought the freehold islands 15 years ago. Superior pieces are also available on Panasesa Island. How wrong can a nautical myth be. A group of us grab the chance to visit the inland village of Obweria, a typical Trobriands settlement where the tidy wood and thatch homes face a grass common. Perfectly apt for this place that he calls, "a little oasis in the middle of the ocean. By submitting your email you are agreeing to Fairfax Media's terms and conditions and privacy policy. A din of whistles, chants and conch horns erupts each time a batsman skies one or gets bowled. Where the hell are they? Visitors can sponsor and release them to the sea. Screamingly vertiginous fun, I'm sure, and I keep meaning to try it but somehow never quite do, suggesting that I'm about as chicken as Sparrow. This mostly uninhabited, island atoll sits in the Solomon Sea kilometres from the eastern tip of mainland PNG. An extraordinary array of marine tropical species โ€” up to one-third of the world's total โ€” is found in the atoll's waters. Cruise Croatia's glamour ports in luxury Contains:. Next come the village belles in a line, swaying demurely and wearing grass skirts, flowers, beads and Christmas tinsel. With marginally more success I manage at times to bypass the considerable temptations of The Pantry and Waterfront restaurants, and make it forward to the gym where the treadmills face the Coral Sea's unblinking, blue horizon. Instead, I revert to type, cruising the burger bar, a gin tasting demo and the latest Jack Reacher tome. It flings me along, high above the pool for 80 whooping metres. Intricately handcrafted bowls and carvings, delicately inlaid with mother-of-pearl, are the Trobriands' specialty. Aboard the Aria, I'm much at home in a sunny, portside cabin with double bed, desk, TV, balcony and even a bathtub. The Aria, with predominantly Australian passengers, declares that it has something for everyone, with its guests ranging from infants in prams to older souls with walking frames, and every age in between. Lazy days at sea? The youths of Obweria hit the field for a-side cricket โ€” with all players on the field at once. Not that, initially, I'm often in mine. A Kula Ring swapping ceremony is re-enacted on Panasesa during ship visits. Sometimes I just daydream over the stern, where the ship's wake is a track winding back to perhaps the least conflicted place on Earth. Then, add the gym, pool, sauna, piano bar, climbing wall, cinema and more. Captain Paoletti next drops anchor at Kiriwina, the largest of the Trobriand Islands. Elsewhere, bingo is in session, as well as spa promotions with bizarre names such as non-surgical facelift and champagne Botox party. The British ship, HMS Conflict bestowed the misnomer title when it first surveyed the islands in Despite the tag, the Conflicts Group is billed, not unreasonably, as "Possibly the most peaceful place on Earth. Several years ago I had tried to land here but the swell and wind were too punchy, and our ship had to sail on. Also decked in loincloths, tassels and body paint, they play with a long bat that's more like a war-club than a gentlemanly willow. The Conflict Islands. On docking, the Aria immediately becomes the largest structure in town and, with passengers and crew including 78 chefs , it probably swells Alotau's population by 10 per cent. A day trip to Tawali on the eastern tip of mainland PNG sees you snorkelling amid clouds of tropical fish above dramatic coral reef drop-offs. The villagers turn on a special performance that includes older women doing a quasi-warrior dance and then a mixed group re-enacting a "thief-shaming" ritual. The tall gentleman I see standing to one side turns out be Ian Gowrie-Smith, 71, the atoll's "owner and custodian". Home Cruises Ocean Cruises. He jokes that the island's name, Panasesa, is often "corrected" by his spell-checker to Panacea. Later I opt for a harbour history cruise to see where, in August , Australian and American infantry inflicted the war's first land defeat on Japanese forces. It feels like running to PNG. No conflict. Get the latest news and updates emailed straight to your inbox. Hundreds of islanders have laid out for sale their handicrafts, including wooden platters delicately inlaid with mother-of-pearl, elaborate walking staves and carved toy crocodiles and turtles. There are stage musicals, a busy kids club and a teens' hangout, as well good Asian and Italian restaurants, to fill the time before our next port of call. We shuttle ashore in the ship's tenders, immediately finding ourselves in the middle of a barefoot supermarket. Keen for a bit of inaction, I plan to do little on the sea days but go with the horizon's flow, snooze, dine well, devour good books, and then repeat cycle. A pure white sand-spit arcs out into a turquoise lagoon, forming an image that might have been peeled from a tropical calendar. Tell someone you're going there and two questions are inevitable. There are around 12, people on Kiriwina. A local expert reveals the battle sites and best stories. Here are the instructions how to enable JavaScript in your web browser. Milne Bay's island communities exchange elaborate "shell money" tributes in order to establish trust and obligation. These Melanesian Bradmans are sluggers, never blockers, going every time for the boundary or bust. Phone or see pocruises.